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There is no doubt that you can save money by doing your own landscaping. You can also beautify your property at the same time. You can not only enhance your home but it can also prove to be a source of exercise and a way to enjoy the fresh air. When you do your own yard care, you save money and improve your own physical condition. However, if you are not satisfied with the results, then you have wasted time and money. It is possible that with a few tips you can ensure your yard will look better and learn how to better care for your yard as well.

First of all, it is important that you know what type of soil you have. Some plants and shrubs thrive in acidic soil, while others prefer a bit more alkalinity in the soil. There is also sandy soil and soil with clay in it, as well as loamy soil, and this can all factor into making a difference in what kinds of plants will be able to live in your soil. You need to have your soil tested and evaluated, in order to figure out what kinds of plants and vegetation should be planted.

When you buy plants that succeed in your current soil, then you end up saving money wisely and have a more attractive yard. If there are plants that you are considering, but your soil condition is not ideal, it is possible to improve soil and get it to the proper condition. You may only need to add mulch, limestone or clamshells, depending upon what you need to have happen. If it is possible to not a great difference between what you want and what you have, it may be possible to made more accommodating adjustments.

You also need to understand how much backyard space each plant will need. Some plants will require more room for their roots and others do not. You should choose a plant that tends to grow heartily everywhere, and if you do not have enough space, you may find your other vegetation is overcrowded and they may choke out and die. Make sure you completely understand the spacing needs for in between plants. Many smaller trees, landscaping bushes and shrubbery need to have at least 3-4 feet between them to have enough room to grow properly.

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It can be hard to grow a thick, dark green lawn, but there are a few tips to follow. When seeding a lawn, fall is undoubtedly the best time. September is the perfect time to begin your lawn, because the hottest weather will be over. You could also start in early spring, but there needs to be good root growth before the hot summer weather arrives. However, they will be competing with crab grass, which grows quickly in the summer months, as well as high heat and inadequate water.

When planting your grass seeds, keep in mind that the seeds are relatively small, so they should not be planted deeply into the ground. As long as the ground is relatively moist, the seeds only need partial covering with soil. You should use about 4 pounds of seeds for 1,000 square feet of lawn. Don’t try to make up for low-quality seeds by using more of them; this will just increase competition between them.

When planting your seeds, use a mechanical spreader if you can. To ensure even coverage, you should spread half the seeds in one direction, the rest in the other direction. That way, you will not miss any spots. When you’re done, rake the seeds lightly. You may also want to cover the seeds with 1/8 inch of soil or compost, but this is not absolutely necessary.

If you’re trying to plant a lawn on a slope, this will need special treatment. If it rains, the seeds are likely to be washed away. You can cover them with straw to keep them in place, but remove the straw as soon as they sprout. Or you can cover the new seedlings with an open mesh burlap, cheesecloth, or garden mesh. These will keep the soil intact and protect the new grass. It should be removed by the time the grass is half an inch long.

Rainfall is best for new grass, but if you have decided on sowing grass seeds during dry weather, you’ll need to water for the seeds to germinate. Be sure to use a fine mist so that you won’t create puddles. Water in the morning, before the hottest part of the day. Especially once the grass seeds sprout, be sure to adequately water them. You can use a sprinkler, but don’t leave it on the lawn until the soil becomes too wet. After you water, the water should reach down about 5 inches into the soil.

As your grass begins to grow, you may wonder when it’s time to begin the chore of mowing. You can start moving when the tallest blades of grass are 2 inches long, but don’t cut the grass shorter than an inch and a half.

If you’re considering tearing out an old lawn to replace it with a new and healthy lawn, this may be a wise decision. However, there are also some things you should do before planting the lawn. If your lawn is growing poorly because the soil is too hard, plow it and add compost. You can also try aerating the top layer of soil, or adding 4 pounds of plant food for every 100 square feet of lawn. If your lawn is mossy, you should improve the drainage before planting your new lawn.

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One of the joys of working with plants comes from creating your very own varieties. Your indoor garden can be made up of plants from the florist or local plant nursery, but at the same time, you are only being a care giver. When you want to start new plants from seedlings or cuttings, you are starting at the very bottom and the success of your endeavor is entirely in your hands.

There are two methods by which a gardener can increase stock; seedlings and cuttings. In the following article, we will discuss both methods in great detail. There are ways you cam really make the most out of your hobby, which results in a beautiful selection of plants. Starting a plant from a seed takes more time, dedication and devotion than simply buying a full grown plant from the store. It is more rewarding and is much cheaper than the alternative. This cost is especially greater in terms of a flowering plant versus a foliage plant.

You can find plant seeds that sell for considerably less than a single, mature plant. The seeds will also yield more plants and not just one. The time involvement is a factor that must be given serious consideration. Plants will vary in growth speed and if you are starting from scratch with a seed, you must plan your time accordingly so that you have a full grown flowering plant when you want it.

It is not that difficult to grow a plant from a seed and you can plant your home garden in a single day. But it does require a certain amount of time and care. All plants multiply by seed germination, but there are many which refuse to do so in a home garden, so it is best to take cuttings and grow from that stage. Here is some information regarding seed propagation.

There is no professional equipment needed other than a pot and some soil You want to take care not to over nutrient the soil, because this can burn the plants and any seeds you are attempting to plant in that soil. Until recently, the home gardener used a soil-sand mixture and peat moss for seed starters. This is still a very popular propagating method, but does have some drawbacks.

The main issue is surrounding the fact that it is difficult to sterilize this type of mixture. It may contain fungus, which can kill plants. In recent times however, a mixture called vermiculite has been added to sterilized soil mixtures. It makes a great growing medium for seeds. It is a sterile, mice-like mineral which replaces dirty sand. Seeds planted in this mixture, will germinate well and be disease free.

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The definition of a weed is simply a plant that is growing where it is not wanted; one that competes for nutrients, space, water and sunlight with other plants in your garden. Our gardens have hundreds of these unwanted plants. They are basically categorized as “broadleaf”, “creeping”, “rosette”, “grassy” weeds and so on. The ones most commonly seen are dandelions, clover, chickweed, plantains and in some areas, wild violets.

Weeds can cause a great deal of trouble in your garden by altering its color and texture. It is vital then that weeds are dealt with as soon as they appear. Here are a few ideas to help you rid your garden of weeds.

Controlling weeds using herbicides A “herbicide” is simply a chemical that acts as a plant killer. Whilst they are very effective, some can be problematic, which is why many landscapers choose alternatives.

Some of the problems with using herbicides are:

* They can kill the plants that you want to keep if they are not used carefully and according to the instructions. * If herbicides are used for too long a period of time, the build up in the soil and water and lead to pollution. * To use the herbicides effectively, the user must have a knowledge of weeds and their corresponding seasons. * They can cause harm to or even kill aquatic wildlife. If you keep these problems in mind, though, they are effective in removing weeds permanently. There are a variety of herbicides available, each one being effective for a certain “family” of weeds. Be sure that you choose the correct herbicides for your particular weed problem and if you are in doubt, check with someone who has the knowledge. It is also vitally important that you read and follow the instructions on the label carefully, both before purchase and when using the herbicide.

Controlling weeds using drip irrigation A drip irrigation system can be helpful in controlling weeds to a degree as the water is directed at the base of each plant, leaving the surrounding soil relatively dry and not attractive to weeds. The drip irrigation system is preferable to the sprinkler system for this reason.

Controlling weeds with soil solarization Whilst this process sounds extremely scientific and complex, it is actually quite easy to do. It involves the use of the sun’s rays to kill the weeds and their seeds. The gardener, when preparing a garden bed for replanting, tills the soil then lays a sheet of UV stable plastic over the entire surface. This is left for around four to eight weeks, in which time the weeds and their seeds have been “cooked” to death. New planting can then be done without the risk of weed growth.

The effectiveness of soil solarization is dependent upon how long the soil is left covered, the nature of the soil and the weeds it contains.

Controlling weeds using inorganic mulch Mulch has two purposes in a garden: it conserves water through the reduction of evaporation and it is an effective weed suppressant. There are two kinds of mulch - organic and inorganic. The organic mulches are made from anything that was once living and they decompose over time. Examples of organic mulches are sawdust, bark, woodchips, clippings and prunings and straw. Inorganic mulches are either man-made or non living natural elements and these do not decompose. Examples include rocks, pebbles and gravel, shredded tires and chips of marble.

Inorganic mulches are better at weed suppression than organic. They do not wash away with water and do not break down, leaving gaps for opportunistic weeds or cracks in boulders. It is a good idea, though, to place a layer of landscaping fabric under the inorganic mulch to prevent it “sinking” into the soil surface, where its weed suppression abilities become diminished.

Controlling weeds using landscaping fabric

These can be very effective in weed control particularly when they are used with rocks or pebbles. They are more effective than black plastic as they allow water to pass through and allow a natural exhange of oxygen and carbon dioxide.

Landscaping fabrics that are chemically treated can be used without mulch. These are treated with herbicides such as trifluralin which is an effective weed controller.

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Cuttings that have successfully developed into small plants will need be transferred from small pots to 5 inch pots as they grow. Ideally, this should be performed just as the roots reach the side limits of the pot and before the plant becomes “pot-bound”.

Be very careful when repotting that you do not remove too much of the soil around the root ball and that the plant is placed straight and upright in its new pot. The plant should then be treated as per repotted plants.

The use of a portable potting tray

A portable potting tray is very useful for people who do not have a greenhouse or potting shed. It can be made from 6 inch boards: the ideal size is a base of 24 x 15 inches, sides and back 9 inches deep and the front around 4 inches.

Seed raising of house plants

There are a number of house plants and in door plants that are easy to propagate from seed. These include Aloe, a succulent plant with medicinal qualities, species of Asparagus, some of the Begonias, many examples of Cacti, Clivias, Cyclamens, members of the Eucalyptus family, varieties of Fuchsia, Grevilleas including G. robusta, Opuntia, the Phoenix palm, Primulas, Ricinus, Rochea (another succulent), hybrids of Saintpaulia and Solatium capsicastrum.

The best compost

Seeds, including those above, can be sown in top quality rich potting soil.

If you decide to use compost it should be sterilized by heating it for approximately 10 minutes in a sterilizer at around 180 degrees F, then allowing it to cool before use by spreading it out on a level surface.

Cheshunt Compound sterilizer, which can be purchased at any seed store can also be used to sterilize compost. It is a powder that, when dissolved in water, can be lightly sprayed over the compost either before or after sowing the seeds. It is safe to use for both humans and the smallest seedlings. You can also sterilize equipment such as seed boxes and pots this way, rendering them pest free. A good compost for seeds can be made by adding peat, sand and fertilizer to sterilized loam.

Seed compost preparation

All ingredients to make the soils for repotting houseplantsshould be carefully mixed after being sifted through 1 inch mesh. Fill the bottom of the pots or seed pans with the larger pieces from the siftings to cover drainage holes before filling them with the finer compost. It should then be pressed down slightly with the fingers and then made moist by placing the pot in a water tray, making sure that the water does not come above the rim (the water has to come up through the compost). Once the surface of the soil appears moist it should be taken from the tray of water and allowed to drain for some time before any seeds are sowed. Seeds should be sown sparsely then covered with more sifted compost. Covering depth of the seeds is dependent upon the size of the seeds; generally, the smaller the seed, the finer the cover and larger seeds should have a coverage in proportion to their largest diameter.

Once the seeds are sown and covered, panes of glass can be used to cover them and sheets of paper can be used as shades.

Tilting the glass to afford air

Turn the glass panel over each day to prevent condensation dripping on to the soil as this can promote decay. Once the seedlings appear, remove the paper shade and begin ventilation. This can be achieved by raising one side of the glass slightly ( a plant label between the panel and the pot works well).Continue this until it is safe to remove the covering completely.

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The beauty of flowering plants is obvious to all. The impact of beauty and color that many flowering plants bring to a garden is something that is desired by almost every gardener. If you are careful and organized with your plantings and arrangement of the flowers in your garden, you will make sure that there is a continuous display of blooms throughout most of the growing season and for years to come. To do this, you should choose flowering annuals and perennials that have different flowering times and if you are very careful and treat your plants well, you will be rewarded with blooms continuously: once one has started to fade, another takes its place.

Soil Requirements

Flower beds and borders require much more preparation than for a lawn. To begin with, the soil must be dug deeper; around 1 1/2 - 2 feet. Whilst flowers will grow in soil that is less deep, the rule is the deeper the hole, the better the production of flowers. The soil should not contain any heavy lumps and animal manure, compost and other organic nutrients should be worked in to this soil. Do not compact the soil, but allow it to settle of its own accord.

The topsoil must be of good quality: well rotted manure, leaf litter, peat moss or heavy sand make good additions. You may apply lime to loosen the soil and wood ash is also a good additive in the spring. Check to see which if any nutrients are lacking in your soil and replace them. Manure should not touch the roots of the plants.

Flower Beds and Borders

The combination of colors that you decide upon should be such that they are pleasing to the eye. Following “trends” is fine as long as the trends are to your taste. Be sure that there is enough contrast in the texture and structure of the plants as well. Too many colors can look “busy” and too much variety in a small bed can have the same effect. Contrast “stronger” more vibrant plants with softer, romantic ones and sharp leaf structures with rounded ones.

The site of the garden bed is also crucial. A spot that is able to obtain a good deal of sun is ideal and it should be close to the house.

Border plantings should be sited away from larger trees and shrubs as these require a great deal of water and nutrients, taking away from the less sturdy flowering annuals and perennials. weight on the garden bedsHeavy landscape rocks may put too much weight on the garden beds making it appear sunken. To add interest and a focal point to the border, use of a set of landscape rock to build stone wall or fence works wonders, as does a backdrop of evergreen shrubbery.

Don’t be frightened to experiment with more than one colour in a border. Multi-colored flowers make ideal borders. Some examples of these are miniature pansies and violas as well as the bold marigolds and even the humble alyssum, which now comes in shades of pink and purple as well as the old fashioned white.

Some Interesting Facts About The Mini Bonsai Trees

You are aware than bonsai means ‘tree in a pot’ in Japanese and this terms refers to a type of trees that are dwarfed by special growing techniques to reproduce the larger version in a miniature form. These plants are not only stunning beautiful, they are also very expensive and painstaking to grow. This is why most people would be surprised to know that there is another yet smaller type of miniaturization called the mini bonsai.

What Is The Mini Bonsai?

The mini bonsai is a tree which is further miniaturized having it grow to maximum the size of your palm. This type of bonsai is very common in Japan and China where it is also known as mame bonsai or shonin bonsai. The great thing about these mini bonsai trees is that almost all of them flower and fruit every year offering an amazing spectacle.

The mini bonsai can propagate from both seeds and cuttings in different seasons according to the growth chart of the species they belong to. The best part with these miniature trees is that they can be grown absolutely anywhere as they need very little special care or space. Their beauty is such that it can completely mesmerize anyone who sees it for the first time.

The same conditions and rules apply to the mini bonsai as it would apply to the regular bonsai trees, i.e. utmost care should be given that water is sufficient in the soil because flooding would rot the roots while dryness would kill it. You need to ensure that the plant has adequate food and light or it would wither away. Most of the mini bonsai trees though considered (maybe owing to their exquisite shape and size) to be indoor plants are actually outdoor plants.

This is why when kept indoors these trees need to be placed in a well ventilated area preferably facing southeast in a place where they could get well exposed to sun light for about six hours per day. If the place offers more than six hours direct sunlight, ensure that they have something that provides shade as protection against dryness.

For food the miniature bonsai trees would need nitrogen based fertilizer twice a month during the spring and summer and daily watering. Pruning and shaping should be done in late spring and early summer when the growth of these trees attains the maximum rate. These trees need to be repotted once every two years until they reach ten years of age. Immediately after repotting the tree would need a lot of water and natural shade to allow the roots to catch up.

Sometimes all of this looks like a lot of trouble and special care; however when you see the miniature trees in all their glory flowering and fruiting, you would find that each one of the efforts involved to get these masterpieces are well worth the trouble.

Transplanting Plants

You may have a plant that has outgrown its current residence or you may need to thin out another, whatever the reason for transplanting plants, care needs to be taken. For the best results care of the root system is adamant.

The cooler weather and fresh spring rains can add to the success of your transplanting project. If you live in a milder climate area successful transplanting can be done almost any time of the year. But in the harsher climates where there is the transition from a cold winter, mild spring, to a hot dry summer, springtime is the best.

Entry Plants and Backyard Patio Plants

The differences in your front and backyard plants can be essential. If your front yard faces the South and your backyard faces the North they will receive differing amounts of sun. If you are transplanting a plant that has done well in your North facing backyard to the South facing front, it may not do as well.

First, find the perfect location for your transplanted plant, then prepare the area. Have the hole ready and fresh soil on hand to gently pack your front or backyard plants into place. Be sure to keep the root ball intact with a small amount of soil while moving it to its new home.

A healthy root system is vital to successful transplanting. While a certain amount of pruning of the roots is good, too much may kill the plant. A small stem with a bit of fresh growth with a large root area is best. Too much growth on top and a small, weak root will not do well.

To aid in the root growth of your new transplant, prune a small amount of the roots before planting. The cut ends will be able to take in nutrients from the new soil and new roots will sprout from the cut ends produce new growth in the stem system above ground.

Rock Plants

Rock plants that have been planted to fill in the spaces between the rocks on a garden retaining grow mostly in a mossy type soil. They seem to do well when transplanted as long as they receive the same amount of water, drainage and are planted in the same type of soil.

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There are tons of articles and information about composting and compost and I do not want to bore you with another one that explains all the technical aspects of this process and the scientific research behind composting.

Although, I’m not denying the fact that technical explanations such as those are necessary as well, but it would be nice to hear or read something more of layman’s approach on the subject. Well that’s something that this article would like to do, anyhow.

Basically, compost plays more that one role than just being a fertilizer to soil. Compost is mulch, a soil conditioner and also something that helps give the soil the best nutrients and minerals plants require. Besides adding nutritional value to soil, compost is also able to contain more water, which is key to all plants. .

There are numerous composting methods which you use. The so called “no-turn” composting method seems to be the easiest. Like what the title of the method indicates, you don’t need to turn the pile of compost at least once every week to quicken the process of decomposition. In this “no-turn” technique, all you need to do is add a lot of coarse materials to your compost.

You will do just fine by adding a large quantity of straw. The role of straw is to create air pockets and also to aerate the pile. The compost will develop at the same rate as when you use the traditional “turn-over” composting technique. When using this technique, make sure you get your compost from the bottom pile. Do not forget to add some coarse materials together with your organic materials.

If the only available composting materials in your yard are piles and piles of leaves, then don’t worry. Creating composts from leaves alone can be done. You just need a couple of things, and some very simple techniques. Select a place where you will make your compost pile. For the leaves, the place ideal would be a well shaded area which will help keep the pile damp or moist. Also keep in mind that the pile should not be packed tightly. Keep it loose to allow the air to circulate.

In four or six months, the compost from leaves should be finished and ready to be applied to the soil. Take a mental note, however, that the compost created from the leaves does not contain enough nutrients and microorganism to function as a fertilizer. The finished compost, however, is great as soil conditioner.

When composting, you will need materials rich in carbon and nitrogen namely fruits and vegetable scraps and other table scraps except left over bones because they attract a number of pests and animals. Other products include eggshells, grass or shrub clippings, pine needles, seaweed and kelp, coffee grounds, wood ash, tea leaves, cardboard and shredded paper, corn stalks, wood chips, and sawdust.

To prevent fruit flies and other pests from grouping together on your compost pile, it would be best to cover the pile or add some lime or calcium over the top or whenever you add new materials to your compost. The lime and calcium also help eliminate the odors from your pile.

I hope you were able to have a simplified view of the composting and got some useful and simple tips from the article. Just remember that composting is difficult only if you want it to be.

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One of the great things about outdoor plants is they require very little attention. They gather all of the nutrients they need from the surrounding air and soil, and in an environment that is anything but arid, require very little to no feeding. This is in contrast to indoor plants, which require a thoughtful and constant eye from the gardener. If you’re not careful though, even outdoor plants can suffer if not properly setup and looked after.

Fertilizers come with varying concentrations of three key elements, Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium, and the degree to which each element exists in a particular fertilizer is displayed on the packaging, abbreviated as three numbers separated by dashes. 10-10-10, an equal mixture of all three elements is common, but many other mixtures can be found to suit individual plants or patches of garden.

Each plant species will require different amounts of these elements to thrive, and just as they can wilt under too little of these elements, so too can they suffer if given an overdose of the wrong element. The season will also affect the needs of many plants, with flowering plants requiring more sustenance in spring while they grow, and less in the fall.

Plants also absorb this fertilizer at differing rates. Fertilizer with slow-release nitrogen beads is often ideal, as they deliver material below the surface at a steady rate.

Phosphorus is essential for flowering plants, and is tied in with the pH level, or acidity of the soil. This pH scale functions on a scale from 0-14, with 7, the pH level of water being neutral. The lower on the scale, the more acidic the compound is, the higher on the scale the more basic.

If soil is either too basic or too acidic, it can affect an indoor houseplant’s absorption and release of phosphorus, inhibiting plant growth, especially the growth of roots.

The finally element, potassium helps fight diseases and also promotes the development of fruit bearing plants. It aids fruit growth and development by transporting elements throughout the tissues of the plant.

Another convenient fertilizer option is to go with an all purpose liquid, which works with a number of different plants, effectively delivering an even level of fertilizer. For some plants with higher absorption rates though, this method may result in delivering elements to the plant too quickly, potentially poisoning the plant.

Whichever method and degree of fertilizer you choose, always be sure to apply the fertilizer to dry soil. Applying the fertilizer to wet soil can lead to an increased concentration of elements and damage the plant.

New plants will not need fertilizer after purchase in most cases, save for flowering plants in spring. All others should be fine to begin with if they were properly maintained at the gardening center before purchase.

Through careful soil and element manipulation, you can ensure your plants will survive and thrive under almost any condition, and with a minimal level of further upkeep required. Be sure to read the labels on your plants, or consult someone with a knowledge of the plant to ascertain its ideal fertilizer choice.