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Cuttings that have successfully developed into small plants will need be transferred from small pots to 5 inch pots as they grow. Ideally, this should be performed just as the roots reach the side limits of the pot and before the plant becomes “pot-bound”.

Be very careful when repotting that you do not remove too much of the soil around the root ball and that the plant is placed straight and upright in its new pot. The plant should then be treated as per repotted plants.

The use of a portable potting tray

A portable potting tray is very useful for people who do not have a greenhouse or potting shed. It can be made from 6 inch boards: the ideal size is a base of 24 x 15 inches, sides and back 9 inches deep and the front around 4 inches.

Seed raising of house plants

There are a number of house plants and in door plants that are easy to propagate from seed. These include Aloe, a succulent plant with medicinal qualities, species of Asparagus, some of the Begonias, many examples of Cacti, Clivias, Cyclamens, members of the Eucalyptus family, varieties of Fuchsia, Grevilleas including G. robusta, Opuntia, the Phoenix palm, Primulas, Ricinus, Rochea (another succulent), hybrids of Saintpaulia and Solatium capsicastrum.

The best compost

Seeds, including those above, can be sown in top quality rich potting soil.

If you decide to use compost it should be sterilized by heating it for approximately 10 minutes in a sterilizer at around 180 degrees F, then allowing it to cool before use by spreading it out on a level surface.

Cheshunt Compound sterilizer, which can be purchased at any seed store can also be used to sterilize compost. It is a powder that, when dissolved in water, can be lightly sprayed over the compost either before or after sowing the seeds. It is safe to use for both humans and the smallest seedlings. You can also sterilize equipment such as seed boxes and pots this way, rendering them pest free. A good compost for seeds can be made by adding peat, sand and fertilizer to sterilized loam.

Seed compost preparation

All ingredients to make the soils for repotting houseplantsshould be carefully mixed after being sifted through 1 inch mesh. Fill the bottom of the pots or seed pans with the larger pieces from the siftings to cover drainage holes before filling them with the finer compost. It should then be pressed down slightly with the fingers and then made moist by placing the pot in a water tray, making sure that the water does not come above the rim (the water has to come up through the compost). Once the surface of the soil appears moist it should be taken from the tray of water and allowed to drain for some time before any seeds are sowed. Seeds should be sown sparsely then covered with more sifted compost. Covering depth of the seeds is dependent upon the size of the seeds; generally, the smaller the seed, the finer the cover and larger seeds should have a coverage in proportion to their largest diameter.

Once the seeds are sown and covered, panes of glass can be used to cover them and sheets of paper can be used as shades.

Tilting the glass to afford air

Turn the glass panel over each day to prevent condensation dripping on to the soil as this can promote decay. Once the seedlings appear, remove the paper shade and begin ventilation. This can be achieved by raising one side of the glass slightly ( a plant label between the panel and the pot works well).Continue this until it is safe to remove the covering completely.

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The beauty of flowering plants is obvious to all. The impact of beauty and color that many flowering plants bring to a garden is something that is desired by almost every gardener. If you are careful and organized with your plantings and arrangement of the flowers in your garden, you will make sure that there is a continuous display of blooms throughout most of the growing season and for years to come. To do this, you should choose flowering annuals and perennials that have different flowering times and if you are very careful and treat your plants well, you will be rewarded with blooms continuously: once one has started to fade, another takes its place.

Soil Requirements

Flower beds and borders require much more preparation than for a lawn. To begin with, the soil must be dug deeper; around 1 1/2 - 2 feet. Whilst flowers will grow in soil that is less deep, the rule is the deeper the hole, the better the production of flowers. The soil should not contain any heavy lumps and animal manure, compost and other organic nutrients should be worked in to this soil. Do not compact the soil, but allow it to settle of its own accord.

The topsoil must be of good quality: well rotted manure, leaf litter, peat moss or heavy sand make good additions. You may apply lime to loosen the soil and wood ash is also a good additive in the spring. Check to see which if any nutrients are lacking in your soil and replace them. Manure should not touch the roots of the plants.

Flower Beds and Borders

The combination of colors that you decide upon should be such that they are pleasing to the eye. Following “trends” is fine as long as the trends are to your taste. Be sure that there is enough contrast in the texture and structure of the plants as well. Too many colors can look “busy” and too much variety in a small bed can have the same effect. Contrast “stronger” more vibrant plants with softer, romantic ones and sharp leaf structures with rounded ones.

The site of the garden bed is also crucial. A spot that is able to obtain a good deal of sun is ideal and it should be close to the house.

Border plantings should be sited away from larger trees and shrubs as these require a great deal of water and nutrients, taking away from the less sturdy flowering annuals and perennials. weight on the garden bedsHeavy landscape rocks may put too much weight on the garden beds making it appear sunken. To add interest and a focal point to the border, use of a set of landscape rock to build stone wall or fence works wonders, as does a backdrop of evergreen shrubbery.

Don’t be frightened to experiment with more than one colour in a border. Multi-colored flowers make ideal borders. Some examples of these are miniature pansies and violas as well as the bold marigolds and even the humble alyssum, which now comes in shades of pink and purple as well as the old fashioned white.

Some Interesting Facts About The Mini Bonsai Trees

You are aware than bonsai means ‘tree in a pot’ in Japanese and this terms refers to a type of trees that are dwarfed by special growing techniques to reproduce the larger version in a miniature form. These plants are not only stunning beautiful, they are also very expensive and painstaking to grow. This is why most people would be surprised to know that there is another yet smaller type of miniaturization called the mini bonsai.

What Is The Mini Bonsai?

The mini bonsai is a tree which is further miniaturized having it grow to maximum the size of your palm. This type of bonsai is very common in Japan and China where it is also known as mame bonsai or shonin bonsai. The great thing about these mini bonsai trees is that almost all of them flower and fruit every year offering an amazing spectacle.

The mini bonsai can propagate from both seeds and cuttings in different seasons according to the growth chart of the species they belong to. The best part with these miniature trees is that they can be grown absolutely anywhere as they need very little special care or space. Their beauty is such that it can completely mesmerize anyone who sees it for the first time.

The same conditions and rules apply to the mini bonsai as it would apply to the regular bonsai trees, i.e. utmost care should be given that water is sufficient in the soil because flooding would rot the roots while dryness would kill it. You need to ensure that the plant has adequate food and light or it would wither away. Most of the mini bonsai trees though considered (maybe owing to their exquisite shape and size) to be indoor plants are actually outdoor plants.

This is why when kept indoors these trees need to be placed in a well ventilated area preferably facing southeast in a place where they could get well exposed to sun light for about six hours per day. If the place offers more than six hours direct sunlight, ensure that they have something that provides shade as protection against dryness.

For food the miniature bonsai trees would need nitrogen based fertilizer twice a month during the spring and summer and daily watering. Pruning and shaping should be done in late spring and early summer when the growth of these trees attains the maximum rate. These trees need to be repotted once every two years until they reach ten years of age. Immediately after repotting the tree would need a lot of water and natural shade to allow the roots to catch up.

Sometimes all of this looks like a lot of trouble and special care; however when you see the miniature trees in all their glory flowering and fruiting, you would find that each one of the efforts involved to get these masterpieces are well worth the trouble.

Transplanting Plants

You may have a plant that has outgrown its current residence or you may need to thin out another, whatever the reason for transplanting plants, care needs to be taken. For the best results care of the root system is adamant.

The cooler weather and fresh spring rains can add to the success of your transplanting project. If you live in a milder climate area successful transplanting can be done almost any time of the year. But in the harsher climates where there is the transition from a cold winter, mild spring, to a hot dry summer, springtime is the best.

Entry Plants and Backyard Patio Plants

The differences in your front and backyard plants can be essential. If your front yard faces the South and your backyard faces the North they will receive differing amounts of sun. If you are transplanting a plant that has done well in your North facing backyard to the South facing front, it may not do as well.

First, find the perfect location for your transplanted plant, then prepare the area. Have the hole ready and fresh soil on hand to gently pack your front or backyard plants into place. Be sure to keep the root ball intact with a small amount of soil while moving it to its new home.

A healthy root system is vital to successful transplanting. While a certain amount of pruning of the roots is good, too much may kill the plant. A small stem with a bit of fresh growth with a large root area is best. Too much growth on top and a small, weak root will not do well.

To aid in the root growth of your new transplant, prune a small amount of the roots before planting. The cut ends will be able to take in nutrients from the new soil and new roots will sprout from the cut ends produce new growth in the stem system above ground.

Rock Plants

Rock plants that have been planted to fill in the spaces between the rocks on a garden retaining grow mostly in a mossy type soil. They seem to do well when transplanted as long as they receive the same amount of water, drainage and are planted in the same type of soil.

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There are tons of articles and information about composting and compost and I do not want to bore you with another one that explains all the technical aspects of this process and the scientific research behind composting.

Although, I’m not denying the fact that technical explanations such as those are necessary as well, but it would be nice to hear or read something more of layman’s approach on the subject. Well that’s something that this article would like to do, anyhow.

Basically, compost plays more that one role than just being a fertilizer to soil. Compost is mulch, a soil conditioner and also something that helps give the soil the best nutrients and minerals plants require. Besides adding nutritional value to soil, compost is also able to contain more water, which is key to all plants. .

There are numerous composting methods which you use. The so called “no-turn” composting method seems to be the easiest. Like what the title of the method indicates, you don’t need to turn the pile of compost at least once every week to quicken the process of decomposition. In this “no-turn” technique, all you need to do is add a lot of coarse materials to your compost.

You will do just fine by adding a large quantity of straw. The role of straw is to create air pockets and also to aerate the pile. The compost will develop at the same rate as when you use the traditional “turn-over” composting technique. When using this technique, make sure you get your compost from the bottom pile. Do not forget to add some coarse materials together with your organic materials.

If the only available composting materials in your yard are piles and piles of leaves, then don’t worry. Creating composts from leaves alone can be done. You just need a couple of things, and some very simple techniques. Select a place where you will make your compost pile. For the leaves, the place ideal would be a well shaded area which will help keep the pile damp or moist. Also keep in mind that the pile should not be packed tightly. Keep it loose to allow the air to circulate.

In four or six months, the compost from leaves should be finished and ready to be applied to the soil. Take a mental note, however, that the compost created from the leaves does not contain enough nutrients and microorganism to function as a fertilizer. The finished compost, however, is great as soil conditioner.

When composting, you will need materials rich in carbon and nitrogen namely fruits and vegetable scraps and other table scraps except left over bones because they attract a number of pests and animals. Other products include eggshells, grass or shrub clippings, pine needles, seaweed and kelp, coffee grounds, wood ash, tea leaves, cardboard and shredded paper, corn stalks, wood chips, and sawdust.

To prevent fruit flies and other pests from grouping together on your compost pile, it would be best to cover the pile or add some lime or calcium over the top or whenever you add new materials to your compost. The lime and calcium also help eliminate the odors from your pile.

I hope you were able to have a simplified view of the composting and got some useful and simple tips from the article. Just remember that composting is difficult only if you want it to be.

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One of the great things about outdoor plants is they require very little attention. They gather all of the nutrients they need from the surrounding air and soil, and in an environment that is anything but arid, require very little to no feeding. This is in contrast to indoor plants, which require a thoughtful and constant eye from the gardener. If you’re not careful though, even outdoor plants can suffer if not properly setup and looked after.

Fertilizers come with varying concentrations of three key elements, Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium, and the degree to which each element exists in a particular fertilizer is displayed on the packaging, abbreviated as three numbers separated by dashes. 10-10-10, an equal mixture of all three elements is common, but many other mixtures can be found to suit individual plants or patches of garden.

Each plant species will require different amounts of these elements to thrive, and just as they can wilt under too little of these elements, so too can they suffer if given an overdose of the wrong element. The season will also affect the needs of many plants, with flowering plants requiring more sustenance in spring while they grow, and less in the fall.

Plants also absorb this fertilizer at differing rates. Fertilizer with slow-release nitrogen beads is often ideal, as they deliver material below the surface at a steady rate.

Phosphorus is essential for flowering plants, and is tied in with the pH level, or acidity of the soil. This pH scale functions on a scale from 0-14, with 7, the pH level of water being neutral. The lower on the scale, the more acidic the compound is, the higher on the scale the more basic.

If soil is either too basic or too acidic, it can affect an indoor houseplant’s absorption and release of phosphorus, inhibiting plant growth, especially the growth of roots.

The finally element, potassium helps fight diseases and also promotes the development of fruit bearing plants. It aids fruit growth and development by transporting elements throughout the tissues of the plant.

Another convenient fertilizer option is to go with an all purpose liquid, which works with a number of different plants, effectively delivering an even level of fertilizer. For some plants with higher absorption rates though, this method may result in delivering elements to the plant too quickly, potentially poisoning the plant.

Whichever method and degree of fertilizer you choose, always be sure to apply the fertilizer to dry soil. Applying the fertilizer to wet soil can lead to an increased concentration of elements and damage the plant.

New plants will not need fertilizer after purchase in most cases, save for flowering plants in spring. All others should be fine to begin with if they were properly maintained at the gardening center before purchase.

Through careful soil and element manipulation, you can ensure your plants will survive and thrive under almost any condition, and with a minimal level of further upkeep required. Be sure to read the labels on your plants, or consult someone with a knowledge of the plant to ascertain its ideal fertilizer choice.

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It’s an unavoidable fact that if left untended, for every flower and plant that adorns our gardens, a greater number of pests will also take root. The good news is that removing these scoundrels from infesting your vegetation does not need to rely on chemicals, nor should it. For each individual species of pest that shows up in your garden abode, there is a natural solution that is cheaper and most importantly, safer to use than pesticides.

Shockingly, North Americans use upwards of 130 million pounds of pesticide each year, both in their gardens and in their homes. This dwarfs the amount used by farmers by almost three times, and accounts for a high percentage of wildlife pest poisonings and contamination of surface water from pesticide use.

Cutting back on this problem requires educating gardeners and homeowners everywhere. Taking the initiative by spreading the word yourself can only help, and the best way to do that is to lead by example, and keep your own home pesticide free.

The following tips will help you keep your garden healthy and pest free without resorting to harmful pesticide use.

The most common problem gardeners will face is insect damage to their plants. With proper cultivation and gardening methods, this problem can be drastically reduced before having to resort to other methods. This means having well-prepared soil, adjusting the pH balance as needed, good drainage and air circulation.

As your garden continues to grow and take shape, remove and dispose immediately of any struggling plants. Be sure to keep your compost area for storing your weeds, discarded plants and compost well away from your main gardening area, as the compost heap will be sure to attract pests.

Keep your garden beds well mulched and top-dressed with compost to ensure healthy plant development. Ensure you’re using clean mulch, bought from a reputable dealer or cultivated yourself.

Be sure to keep your garden area clear of debris and things that will attract insects. If you have fruit trees near your garden, be sure to dispose of any fallen fruit immediately. Spoiled pears or apples will attract all many of pests.

Seaweed fertilizer sprays are useful for strengthening soil and promoting plant growth. They contain helpful minerals and trace elements like iron, calcium, sulphur and magnesium.

Mix up your garden beds with a variety of plant types interspersed throughout. This makes it difficult for plant specific pests to propagate and spread throughout your garden bed.

If you’ve used your gardening implements on infected plants, be sure to sterilize them before using them on healthy plants.

Finally, you can call on the power of nature itself to help you in your fight using a natural product like neem oil. By attracting or purchasing insects which feast upon the particular pests bothering your plants, you can remove them in one fell swoop of natural selection. Praying Mantises, Hover Flies, Ladybugs, Chalcids, Brachonids, and if they don’t frighten you, Wasps, are all insects which will help you battle common varieties of garden pests.

Having a healthy and beautiful garden should not be your number one priority, the health and safety of family should be. Thankfully it is not a choice of one or the other. By using any or all of the above tips, you can keep your garden looking great, and have no fear of your children playing near your plants. It’s truly the best of both worlds.

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There are almost as many schools of thought about pruning trees as there are people who prune! And I’m not talking about dried plums, either. To try and shed some light of this confusion, I’m offering my own recommendations and interpretations.

Trim back any over exuberant branches that are out of line with the rest of your tree or shrub, remove any dead, broken, or dying branches, and cut out any crossed branches that might rub together. Don’t forget to cut back those weak and spindly shoots (suckers) that come up around the trunk.Before you start to prune anything, take a good look at it and make sure it really needs to be pruned! As you stand there and stare at your potential victim, notice its general shape, and its size in relationship to its location and other trees and shrubs nearby. If the overall impression is favorable, then all you really need to do is a little “clean up” pruning.

Young trees need to be pruned so that they develop into strong, healthy, and attractive adults. In general, choose one strong central branch to be the leader, and prune out all other competing secondary leaders. A tree with 2 rival leaders, just like a country, can split down the middle since the crotch of that tree is very weak.

Avoid cutting above a bud or branchlet that is pointing back in towards the central trunk, as this will result in an untidy mess of crossing branches in the interior of your tree. When pruning, consider which way you are going to want the new growth to go, and make your cut close to a bud or branchlet which is already headed in that direction.Always make your cuts at or just above a bud, a branch, or night at the trunk of the tree itself, so you don’t leave a little stub sticking out. That bud or branchlet is going to become the dominant one on that branch.

So what should you do if you are in the unfortunate position of having a tree that is too big for the spot it’s in? It’s sort of like having a Saint Bernard that thinks it is a lap dog. I don’t know what you would do about the dog but the best thing you can do with the tree is to have it removed, and to plant a more appropriate choice in its place.

To shape young pines, pinch back the growing tip by about half in the spring. Don’t head them back, since on most evergreens, once a branch is cut, no new growth will form.As your tree grows, you can determine the form it will take. If you want your tree to develop into an open, airy tree, thin out branchlets that develop along the sides of the main branches. If you want a tight, compact tree, leave these branchlets alone, and head back the very tips of the main lateral branches.