Archive for the 'Seeds' Category

Exist Clever, Exist Smarter

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

One of the benefits of living green is it can extend your lifespan. This may be surprising, but it is very true. There are many things that not only help the earth, but they help you, too! Eating fresh organic foods, cutting down on driving, and many other things will help you live greener, longer!

By eating healthy, organic foods you are not only helping your body by giving it fresh food, you are saving the earth from being contaminated by pesticides. Organic meats help by keeping the environment free of antibiotics and growth hormones. Plus you’re avoiding all those nasty things from going inside of you! By eating fresh, organic foods, you are avoiding all the processed foods that do a better job of clogging your arteries than they do of providing nutrition.

Try to drive less. By combining your errands, you not only save fuel and reduce the traffic on the roads; you are giving yourself less stress from dealing with traffic jams and other drivers. Carpool or use public transit when you can. If you choose to ride a bike or walk for some of your errands, you also get needed exercise. This will help keep your heart healthy and keep you limber and toned.

Composting your food scraps can save you money in garbage waste and provide you with great soil next season for your own garden. It also keeps a lot of good stuff out of the landfills. Just keep adding your fruit and vegetable wastes, egg shells, coffee grounds, and grains to the compost pile. You can add your raked leaves and lawn clippings as well. Don’t add meat or bones… they will attract insects like flies and will take longer to compost. Water the compost down once in awhile to get the enzymes activated. Come spring, you’ll have some nice compost soil to add to your own vegetable garden for more healthy eating.

Other things you can do will just make your home more comfortable. Larger windows can help let in more natural light so you don’t need to turn your lights on early. Using compact fluorescent bulbs can save you money and will save energy. Use energy-efficient appliances and don’t leave your air conditioner on when you’re not at home. You’ll be amazed at how much this impacts your energy usage.

Small things like recycling cans, bottles and plastic packaging helps lower your garbage bills and helps reduce your carbon footprint. Use cloth bags when you shop instead of taking their paper or plastic bags. Some stores even knock off a few cents when you use your own bags. All of this will help reduce pollution, which is healthier for you because you’ll be breathing cleaner air.

Contrary to popular opinion, it is easy to be green and even easier too go green. It saves you money while doing something good for the environment. Before you know it, living green will be second nature and you’ll be looking for ways to add some more green living to your lifestyle.

About the Author:

Growing A Plant From Seed

Saturday, December 6th, 2008
Germinating sunflower seedlings.

Image via Wikipedia

One of the joys of working with plants comes from creating your very own varieties. Your indoor garden can be made up of plants from the florist or local plant nursery, but at the same time, you are only being a care giver. When you want to start new plants from seedlings or cuttings, you are starting at the very bottom and the success of your endeavor is entirely in your hands.

There are two methods by which a gardener can increase stock; seedlings and cuttings. In the following article, we will discuss both methods in great detail. There are ways you cam really make the most out of your hobby, which results in a beautiful selection of plants. Starting a plant from a seed takes more time, dedication and devotion than simply buying a full grown plant from the store. It is more rewarding and is much cheaper than the alternative. This cost is especially greater in terms of a flowering plant versus a foliage plant.

You can find plant seeds that sell for considerably less than a single, mature plant. The seeds will also yield more plants and not just one. The time involvement is a factor that must be given serious consideration. Plants will vary in growth speed and if you are starting from scratch with a seed, you must plan your time accordingly so that you have a full grown flowering plant when you want it.

It is not that difficult to grow a plant from a seed and you can plant your home garden in a single day. But it does require a certain amount of time and care. All plants multiply by seed germination, but there are many which refuse to do so in a home garden, so it is best to take cuttings and grow from that stage. Here is some information regarding seed propagation.

There is no professional equipment needed other than a pot and some soil You want to take care not to over nutrient the soil, because this can burn the plants and any seeds you are attempting to plant in that soil. Until recently, the home gardener used a soil-sand mixture and peat moss for seed starters. This is still a very popular propagating method, but does have some drawbacks.

The main issue is surrounding the fact that it is difficult to sterilize this type of mixture. It may contain fungus, which can kill plants. In recent times however, a mixture called vermiculite has been added to sterilized soil mixtures. It makes a great growing medium for seeds. It is a sterile, mice-like mineral which replaces dirty sand. Seeds planted in this mixture, will germinate well and be disease free.

About the Author:
Reblog this post [with Zemanta]

How to get rid of grubs in your lawn

Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008

This article talks about the devastation caused to your lawn by the presence of grubs. It outlines ways and means by which you can get rid of grubs in a safe and effective manner.

Maintenance of a lawn is very important for it to look beautiful and healthy. One possible damage to a lawn comes from grubs. In fact, the extent of harm from grubs can be quite considerable and preventive steps should be taken as soon as possible. Wilting of grass and the presence of wildlife and birds in your lawn is an indication of the fact that your lawn has been infested by grubs. If you find small holes in the lawn, then it could be because of small animals having tried to uproot the grubs. Generally, possibility of grub infestation is high during dry weather, particularly the time between spring and fall. Before starting with treatment for grubs, do make sure that the problem is actually with grubs and nothing else. The good part about treatment of grubs is that it is not a very difficult procedure as grubs can be seen immediately under the lawn soil.

The only care you have to take before treatment is to verify the kind of insect that is present in the soil. If your soil is infested with white grubs, then it is the larvae of beetles and it is usually white, fat and seen in a C shape. These beetles have six legs and a brown head and take two years to transform into a matured beetle. The best time to treat them is during warm weather, when they are usually feeding. As long as no grub infested area is left untreated, grub removal is easily achieved.

However, it is always better to stop grub infestation before it starts rather than worry about the treatment procedure. This applies to grub infestation, also. If you take certain measures beforehand, you will not be afflicted by the problem of grubs and you won?t have to spend time in treating them. The best cure for not letting grubs enter your lawn is to place bacteria that give rise to milky spore disease in your garden. The great thing about these bacteria is that it does not let grubs appear in your lawn and it has no other side-effects on your lawn. Apart from this, the bacteria can function for a great number of years and is very useful, particularly when used before the infestation has begun. If the lawn is already infested, then the bacteria do not have a very impressive effect on your lawn and it will take considerable time for you lawn to be rid of the grubs.

Apart from this, there are microscopic worms called nematodes in the soil which attack the white grubs. They are very small, but perfectly capable of destroying the grubs. The way they function is by entering the grubs? body and then giving out a poison which finishes off the grubs in around two days time. Rather than resorting to chemicals, nematodes are a very effective way of doing away with grubs. This should be an essential learning from your supplies gardening exercises.

About the Author:

The right way to look after your lawn

Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008

This article talks about how some basic steps will ensure that you get a great looking lawn. The article also talks about the proper way to mow your lawn, and the fertilizer to be used for your lawn.

If you are one of those people for whom a great lawn matters, then there are certain things that you need to do. To begin with, do not anticipate instantaneous results. You have to be willing to put in a lot of hard work. The problem with most people is that without any hard work, they want solutions. As with everything else, this is not going to work even in the area of lawn care.

So, if you really desire a good-looking lawn, you have to make a detailed plan for your garden. See to it that you schedule a routine for your lawn. This will make it easier for you to keep in mind the things that you need to do annually for your lawn. Along with this, try and obtain quality commercial equipment for maintaining your lawn and also make use of great products available in the market to promote the health of your lawn.

Before beginning with lawn care, gauge how your lawn is faring at the present. You have to check whether the grass is bouncing with health or it is drooping, whether your lawn exhibits the presence of weeds and if it does how bad the situation is. If your grass is drooping, then you have to try and find the degree of dryness. A good idea of these and other essential factors will help in proper planning for lawn care.

After assessing the state of your lawn, you can start thinking about the steps that need to be taken. A good idea would be to begin by mowing the lawn. Do not abandon the plan if you find that the length of the grass is negligible. Giving one more mowing is always going to benefit your lawn. The fact about mowing is that people often underestimate the seriousness of mowing. Many people assume that simply running the lawnmower over the grass is what mowing is all about. This is a fallacy.

First of all, you have to ensure that the lawnmower has sharp blades. This is very important because otherwise there is a possibility that instead of cutting the blades of the grass, the lawnmower is only shredding the blades which results in the lawn having an unkempt look. While mowing the garden, a good idea would be to cover the lawn by taking as many directions as possible. This means that you should go diagonal, clockwise and counter clockwise to get that clean look for your lawn.

Apart from lawn mowing, you need to reach a proper understanding of the condition of the quality of soil in your lawn. The best idea would be to go for a soil test. With the help of a soil test, you will be able to find the levels of potassium, lime requirements, pH and phosphorus in your lawn. To find out the level of nitrogen, a soil test will not help and so you will have to find other ways to do this. Generally, compost is a great fertilizer to provide the needed nutrients to your lawn and is used in most of the front yard landscape designs exercises.

About the Author:

Avoid chemicals and opt for organic lawn care

Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008

This article talks about the ways in which you can stick to organic lawn care. Having tall grass, buying organic pesticides and organic fertilizers are some of the ways in which you can avoid chemicals and adhere to natural methods for your lawn.

Taking care of the lawn in an organic way is extremely important. Organic lawn care is very beneficial to the environment and also to your health which is why you should completely do away with the use of pesticides and other chemicals. When you use organic methods for your lawn, you will not have to lose sleep over the idea of kids and pets playing in the lawn. The kids could roll over in the soil to their heart?s content and you could enjoy the view without anything to worry about.

If you are planning to go organic with your lawn, the first thing you have to pay attention to is the length of the grass. Unlike chemicals induced lawn care where grass is cut very short, in organic lawn care the length of the grass has to be on the higher side. To be more precise, you need a minimum of three inches of grass and this is more so in summer. This is a very important part of organic lawn care. There are various reasons behind this. The fact is that tall grass has more capabilities of perseverance and survival than the shorter one. Closely cropped grass can be affected by summer heat really fast and then change color, whereas tall grass can withstand the scorching heat of summer. What happens is that taller grass has a sturdy root structure and so it gets enough of nutrition and water. Also, tall grass offer better shading facilities to seeds and ensure that they do not wither because of the unbearable heat of summer.

The second aspect of organic lawn care is the process of fertilization. Always remember to apply organic fertilizers and among the vast variety of organic fertilizers available in the market today, make sure to pick up a reputed brand. Another important thing you need to keep in mind is the time of fertilization. You should only fertilize your lawn during spring or fall. Fertilization during summer can scorch the grass because of the heat emitted, so do not fertilize your lawn during summer.

The third aspect of organic lawn care deals with pest control. Making use of chemical insecticides is totally forbidden even if your lawn is filled with plant shrubs and bugs. What you can do is to get hold of a bird house or bird bath to draw bug eating birds to your lawn. If this does not produce very effective results, you can buy non-chemical and non-poisonous pest control products from the market. There are plenty of these organic pesticides and landscaping tools available today, so pest control should not be a problem when it comes to organic lawn care.

About the Author:

Garden Tips: The Planting of Seeds and Fighting Enemies

Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008
Germinating sunflower seedlings.

Image via Wikipedia

Any reliable seed house can be depended upon for good seeds; but even so, there is a great risk in seeds. A seed may to all appearances be all right and yet not have within it vitality enough, or power, to produce a hardy plant.

If you should happen to have the opportunity to visit a seeds man’s garden, you will see here and there a blossom with a string tied around it. These are blossoms chosen for seed. If you look at the whole plant with care you will be able to see the points which the gardener held in mind when he did his work of selection.

You may care to know the name of this pantry of food. It is called a cotyledon if there is but one portion, cotyledons if two. Thus we are aided in the classification of plants. A few plants that bear cones like the pines have several cotyledons. But most plants have either one or two cotyledons.

But take the case of large seed, like corn for example. Corn is planted just so far apart and a few seeds in a place. With such a method of planting the matter of per cent, of germination is most important indeed.

Plant Enemies

Two devices and implements that are used for fighting plant enemies are: (First) those used to afford mechanical protection to the plants; (second) those used to apply insecticides and fungicides.

Of the first the most useful is the covered frame. It consists usually of a wooden box, some eighteen inches to two feet square and about eight high, covered with glass, protecting cloth, mosquito netting or mosquito wire. The first two coverings have, of course, the additional advantage of retaining heat and protecting from cold, making it possible by their use to plant earlier than is otherwise safe. They are used extensively in getting an extra early and safe start with cucumbers, melons and the other vine vegetables.

As a final word to the intending purchaser of garden tools, I would say: first thoroughly investigate the different sorts available, and when buying, do not forget that a good tool or a well-made machine will be giving you satisfactory use long, long after the price is forgotten, while a poor one is a constant source of discomfort. Get good tools, and take good care of them. And let me repeat that a few dollars a year, judiciously spent, for tools afterward well cared for, will soon give you a very complete set, and add to your garden profit and pleasure.

About the Author:
Reblog this post [with Zemanta]

The Mini Bonsai

Wednesday, August 13th, 2008
by Charlie Reese

Some Interesting Facts About The Mini Bonsai Trees

You are aware than bonsai means ‘tree in a pot’ in Japanese and this terms refers to a type of trees that are dwarfed by special growing techniques to reproduce the larger version in a miniature form. These plants are not only stunning beautiful, they are also very expensive and painstaking to grow. This is why most people would be surprised to know that there is another yet smaller type of miniaturization called the mini bonsai.

What Is The Mini Bonsai?

The mini bonsai is a tree which is further miniaturized having it grow to maximum the size of your palm. This type of bonsai is very common in Japan and China where it is also known as mame bonsai or shonin bonsai. The great thing about these mini bonsai trees is that almost all of them flower and fruit every year offering an amazing spectacle.

The mini bonsai can propagate from both seeds and cuttings in different seasons according to the growth chart of the species they belong to. The best part with these miniature trees is that they can be grown absolutely anywhere as they need very little special care or space. Their beauty is such that it can completely mesmerize anyone who sees it for the first time.

The same conditions and rules apply to the mini bonsai as it would apply to the regular bonsai trees, i.e. utmost care should be given that water is sufficient in the soil because flooding would rot the roots while dryness would kill it. You need to ensure that the plant has adequate food and light or it would wither away. Most of the mini bonsai trees though considered (maybe owing to their exquisite shape and size) to be indoor plants are actually outdoor plants.

This is why when kept indoors these trees need to be placed in a well ventilated area preferably facing southeast in a place where they could get well exposed to sun light for about six hours per day. If the place offers more than six hours direct sunlight, ensure that they have something that provides shade as protection against dryness.

For food the miniature bonsai trees would need nitrogen based fertilizer twice a month during the spring and summer and daily watering. Pruning and shaping should be done in late spring and early summer when the growth of these trees attains the maximum rate. These trees need to be repotted once every two years until they reach ten years of age. Immediately after repotting the tree would need a lot of water and natural shade to allow the roots to catch up.

Sometimes all of this looks like a lot of trouble and special care; however when you see the miniature trees in all their glory flowering and fruiting, you would find that each one of the efforts involved to get these masterpieces are well worth the trouble.

About the Author:

Vegetable Gardening - Dealing With Tomato Problems

Saturday, August 9th, 2008
Full and cross-section of a ripe supermarket t...Image via Wikipedia
by Dave Truman

One of the most common vegetables to grow is tomatoes. Perhaps it is because of their health benefits, or maybe it is just because they taste so great on salads and sandwiches. Whatever the case may be, these delicious veggies can be some of the most rewarding to grow, as well as some of the trickiest. By following a few simple steps, you can ensure a large, healthy crop and overcome any potential problems.

Tomato plants can be divided into two main categories: those that form a flower cluster at the terminal point, and those that grow indefinitely. The taller plants that grow indefinitely are called indeterminates, and due to the fact that they mature very late in the season, are often in danger of frost damage.

Big, plump tomatoes with healthy leaves are the product of very hot, dry soil, air, and lots of sun. Colder temperatures are the death of many tomato plants.

The best way to protect your plants is by using multiple techniques. Late in the season, when frost threatens, small, portable greenhouses may be used to cover the vine. For those who don’t feel like putting forth that effort, the solution may be to plant early and harvest early. In considering which method to use make sure to take into account the time frame of your growing season.

The cooler climates of the north do best with what are called the first early varieties of tomatoes. These medium sized tomatoes don’t like too much sun, and are often ready to be harvested in about two months.

Beyond weather problems, tomatoes are at risk for a number of common diseases, pests and soil problems.

By not watering your plants evenly a number of problems can develop, such as blossom end rot. This causes a large brown spot to appear on the bottom of the tomato, which softens as it ripens. It is caused by a calcium deficiency, which is caused when a plant does not have a sufficient supply of water.

The only solution is to rid the vine of affected tomatoes and hope the rest will flourish. Clearly, it is best to take the active approach in preventing this problem by watering your plants thoroughly, hydrating all the way down to the root. Mulch is great for keeping the soil moist, and maintaining a pH level of 6.5.

Tomato hornworms are a common scourge of all tomato growers. These four-inch larvae tend to blend into the green stems of the tomato plant. But they can be seen by the aid of the long white stripes down their sides. They have a large false eyespot, a black spot, on the tail.

The adults are large brown moths that may achieve wingspans of up to five inches. Marigolds, basil and other trap crops can help keep them off the tomato plants where they lay their eggs that develop into larvae.

One of the smaller enemies of tomatoes are the tiny, yellowish, green and white aphids. They can be temporarily removed by a hose, but will return unless other measures are taken.

To aid in the control of pests, some choose to plant companion crops. In addition, insecticide soaps can be used that eliminate problems without harming the tomatoes.

Despite the needed care, tomatoes are well worth the effort. These delicious and healthy vegetables make a great addition to any meal.

About the Author:
Zemanta Pixie

How To Get Starting In Vegetable Gardening

Friday, August 8th, 2008
LONDON - MAY 13:  Various types of lettuce gro...Image by Getty Images via Daylife
by Dave Truman

Vegetable gardening has all kinds of positives. It’s fun, it’s good exercise in fresh air, and (lastly, but not least) it provides tasty and healthy food. But nothing comes free. Gardening requires effort and attention.

Planning your vegetable garden is a must. It’s a rare crop in unusual circumstances that can simply be grown from throwing some seed into the ground and harvesting a few months later. Laying out the proper size and location, preparing the soil, and making compost are only some of the activities that need to be done before ever planting a seed.

The Fertilizing Process

Fertilization needs to be done before vegetable plant seeds are planted and while they are growing. Which kind and how much depends on the species, the soil type and other factors. There are a wide variety of choices today and in each case the directions have to be carefully followed. Over fertilizing leads to burning. Using the wrong type will kill a plant more often than using none at all.

Organic vs. Modern Gardening Techniques

Consider whether you want to use strictly organic methods of vegetable gardening, or whether you will rely on modern aids. Not that those two methods are necessarily opposed. It’s becoming more difficult to tell the difference all the time. Traditional organic techniques have been informed by modern science. Modern science has advanced to see the wisdom of incorporating many natural compounds and processes to produce the safest result.

Weed Control & Watering

Watering is critical. Here again, not too much and not too little is key. Soils vary a lot in how effectively they’ll drain or retain water. Species vary in how much water they need. How much water is right is also influenced heavily by temperature and humidity. When to water is equally important. Cool nighttime temperatures can encourage fungi and water left on the leaves makes it almost a certainty.

Weed control is a never ending battle. They spring up in the most unexpected places. But they’re not the only form of life that will cause trouble for your vegetable plants. Pests and diseases are an ever present threat. Keeping them under control doesn’t have to be a war, but it is a perpetual detente.

Some Final Considerations

Before getting started, investigate which plants to sow. Personal taste will play a large role, of course. Some people don’t like onions, others can’t stand broccoli. But the soil and climate will have much more to say about the success of your efforts than a child who doesn’t like spinach.

Tomatoes, for example, are a great vegetable. Tasty, versatile and very healthy. But they like lots of hot sunshine and most varieties are very sensitive to frost. Planting a number, then having your effort ruined because of a hornworm or an early cold snap is a disappointment you don’t need.

Whether you want to grow indoors or outside, in a large plot of earth or in small containers, vegetable gardening will bring many rewards. Putting in a modest effort will bring them forth.

About the Author:
Zemanta Pixie

Wild-Flower Garden

Thursday, April 24th, 2008
by Kim and Charles Petty

A wild-flower garden has a most attractive sound. One thinks of long tramps in the woods, collecting material, and then of the fun in fixing up a real for sure wild garden.

Many people say they have no luck at all with such a garden. It is not a question of luck, but a question of understanding, for wild flowers are like people and each has its personality. What a plant has been accustomed to in Nature it desires always. In fact, when removed from its own sort of living conditions, it sickens and dies. That is enough to tell us that we should copy Nature herself. Suppose you are hunting wild flowers. As you choose certain flowers from the woods, notice the soil they are in, the place, conditions, the surroundings, and the neighbours.

Suppose you find dog-tooth violets and wind-flowers growing near together. Then place them so in your own new garden. Suppose you find a certain violet enjoying an open situation; then it should always have the same. You see the point, do you not? If you wish wild flowers to grow in a tame garden make them feel at home. Cheat them into almost believing that they are still in their native haunts.

Wild flowers ought to be transplanted after blossoming time is over. Take a trowel and a basket into the woods with you. As you take up a few, a columbine, or a hepatica, be sure to take with the roots some of the plant’s own soil, which must be packed about it when replanted.

The bed into which these plants are to go should be prepared carefully before this trip of yours. Surely you do not wish to bring those plants back to wait over a day or night before planting. They should go into new quarters at once. The bed needs soil from the woods, deep and rich and full of leaf mold. The under drainage system should be excellent. Then plants are not to go into water-logged ground. Some people think that all wood plants should have a soil saturated with water. But the woods themselves are not water-logged. It may be that you will need to dig your garden up very deeply and put some stone in the bottom. Over this the top soil should go. And on top, where the top soil once was, put a new layer of the rich soil you brought from the woods.

Before planting water the soil well. Then as you make places for the plants put into each hole some of the soil which belongs to the plant which is to be put there.

I think it would be a rather nice plan to have a wild-flower garden giving a succession of bloom from early spring to late fall; so let us start off with March, the hepatica, spring beauty and saxifrage. Then comes April bearing in its arms the beautiful columbine, the tiny bluets and wild geranium. For May there are the dog-tooth violet and the wood anemone, false Solomon’s seal, Jack-in-the-pulpit, wake robin, bloodroot and violets. June will give the bellflower, mullein, bee balm and foxglove. I would choose the gay butterfly weed for July. Let turtle head, aster, Joe Pye weed, and Queen Anne’s lace make the rest of the season brilliant until frost.

Let us have a bit about the likes and dislikes of these plants. After you are once started you’ll keep on adding to this wild-flower list.

There is no one who doesn’t love the hepatica. Before the spring has really decided to come, this little flower pokes its head up and puts all else to shame. Tucked under a covering of dry leaves the blossoms wait for a ray of warm sunshine to bring them out. These embryo flowers are further protected by a fuzzy covering. This reminds one of a similar protective covering which new fern leaves have. In the spring a hepatica plant wastes no time on getting a new suit of leaves. It makes its old ones do until the blossom has had its day. Then the new leaves, started to be sure before this, have a chance. These delayed, are ready to help out next season. You will find hepaticas growing in clusters, sort of family groups. They are likely to be found in rather open places in the woods. The soil is found to be rich and loose. So these should go only in partly shaded places and under good soil conditions. If planted with other woods specimens give them the benefit of a rather exposed position, that they may catch the early spring sunshine. I should cover hepaticas over with a light litter of leaves in the fall. During the last days of February, unless the weather is extreme take this leaf covering away. You’ll find the hepatica blossoms all ready to poke up their heads.

The spring beauty hardly allows the hepatica to get ahead of her. With a white flower which has dainty tracings of pink, a thin, wiry stem, and narrow, grass-like leaves, this spring flower cannot be mistaken. You will find spring beauties growing in great patches in rather open places. Plant a number of the roots and allow the sun good opportunity to get at them. For this plant loves the sun.

The other March flower mentioned is the saxifrage. This belongs in quite a different sort of environment. It is a plant which grows in dry and rocky places. Often one will find it in chinks of rock. There is an old tale to the effect that the saxifrage roots twine about rocks and work their way into them so that the rock itself splits. Anyway, it is a rock garden plant. I have found it in dry, sandy places right on the borders of a big rock. It has white flower clusters borne on hairy stems.

The columbine is another plant that is quite likely to be found in rocky places. Standing below a ledge and looking up, one sees nestled here and there in rocky crevices one plant or more of columbine. The nodding red heads bob on wiry, slender stems. The roots do not strike deeply into the soil; in fact, often the soil hardly covers them. Now, just because the columbine has little soil, it does not signify that it is indifferent to the soil conditions. For it always has lived, and always should live, under good drainage conditions. I wonder if it has struck you, how really hygienic plants are? Plenty of fresh air, proper drainage, and good food are fundamentals with plants.

It is evident from study of these plants how easy it is to find out what plants like. After studying their feelings, then do not make the mistake of huddling them all together under poor drainage conditions.

I always have a feeling of personal affection for the bluets. When they come I always feel that now things are beginning to settle down outdoors. They start with rich, lovely, little delicate blue blossoms. As June gets hotter and hotter their colour fades a bit, until at times they look quite worn and white. Some people call them Quaker ladies, others innocence. Under any name they are charming. They grow in colonies, sometimes in sunny fields, sometimes by the road-side. From this we learn that they are more particular about the open sunlight than about the soil.

If you desire a flower to pick and use for bouquets, then the wild geranium is not your flower. It droops very quickly after picking and almost immediately drops its petals. But the purplish flowers are showy, and the leaves, while rather coarse, are deeply cut. This latter effect gives a certain boldness to the plant that is rather attractive. The plant is found in rather moist, partly shaded portions of the woods. I like this plant in the garden. It adds good colour and permanent colour as long as blooming time lasts, since there is no object in picking it.

There are numbers and numbers of wild flowers I might have suggested. These I have mentioned were not given for the purpose of a flower guide, but with just one end in view your understanding of how to study soil conditions for the work of starting a wild-flower garden.

If you fear results, take but one or two flowers and study just what you select. Having mastered, or better, become acquainted with a few, add more another year to your garden. I think you will love your wild garden best of all before you are through with it. It is a real study, you see.

About the Author: