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Any reliable seed house can be depended upon for good seeds; but even so, there is a great risk in seeds. A seed may to all appearances be all right and yet not have within it vitality enough, or power, to produce a hardy plant.

If you should happen to have the opportunity to visit a seeds man’s garden, you will see here and there a blossom with a string tied around it. These are blossoms chosen for seed. If you look at the whole plant with care you will be able to see the points which the gardener held in mind when he did his work of selection.

You may care to know the name of this pantry of food. It is called a cotyledon if there is but one portion, cotyledons if two. Thus we are aided in the classification of plants. A few plants that bear cones like the pines have several cotyledons. But most plants have either one or two cotyledons.

But take the case of large seed, like corn for example. Corn is planted just so far apart and a few seeds in a place. With such a method of planting the matter of per cent, of germination is most important indeed.

Plant Enemies

Two devices and implements that are used for fighting plant enemies are: (First) those used to afford mechanical protection to the plants; (second) those used to apply insecticides and fungicides.

Of the first the most useful is the covered frame. It consists usually of a wooden box, some eighteen inches to two feet square and about eight high, covered with glass, protecting cloth, mosquito netting or mosquito wire. The first two coverings have, of course, the additional advantage of retaining heat and protecting from cold, making it possible by their use to plant earlier than is otherwise safe. They are used extensively in getting an extra early and safe start with cucumbers, melons and the other vine vegetables.

As a final word to the intending purchaser of garden tools, I would say: first thoroughly investigate the different sorts available, and when buying, do not forget that a good tool or a well-made machine will be giving you satisfactory use long, long after the price is forgotten, while a poor one is a constant source of discomfort. Get good tools, and take good care of them. And let me repeat that a few dollars a year, judiciously spent, for tools afterward well cared for, will soon give you a very complete set, and add to your garden profit and pleasure.

Some Interesting Facts About The Mini Bonsai Trees

You are aware than bonsai means ‘tree in a pot’ in Japanese and this terms refers to a type of trees that are dwarfed by special growing techniques to reproduce the larger version in a miniature form. These plants are not only stunning beautiful, they are also very expensive and painstaking to grow. This is why most people would be surprised to know that there is another yet smaller type of miniaturization called the mini bonsai.

What Is The Mini Bonsai?

The mini bonsai is a tree which is further miniaturized having it grow to maximum the size of your palm. This type of bonsai is very common in Japan and China where it is also known as mame bonsai or shonin bonsai. The great thing about these mini bonsai trees is that almost all of them flower and fruit every year offering an amazing spectacle.

The mini bonsai can propagate from both seeds and cuttings in different seasons according to the growth chart of the species they belong to. The best part with these miniature trees is that they can be grown absolutely anywhere as they need very little special care or space. Their beauty is such that it can completely mesmerize anyone who sees it for the first time.

The same conditions and rules apply to the mini bonsai as it would apply to the regular bonsai trees, i.e. utmost care should be given that water is sufficient in the soil because flooding would rot the roots while dryness would kill it. You need to ensure that the plant has adequate food and light or it would wither away. Most of the mini bonsai trees though considered (maybe owing to their exquisite shape and size) to be indoor plants are actually outdoor plants.

This is why when kept indoors these trees need to be placed in a well ventilated area preferably facing southeast in a place where they could get well exposed to sun light for about six hours per day. If the place offers more than six hours direct sunlight, ensure that they have something that provides shade as protection against dryness.

For food the miniature bonsai trees would need nitrogen based fertilizer twice a month during the spring and summer and daily watering. Pruning and shaping should be done in late spring and early summer when the growth of these trees attains the maximum rate. These trees need to be repotted once every two years until they reach ten years of age. Immediately after repotting the tree would need a lot of water and natural shade to allow the roots to catch up.

Sometimes all of this looks like a lot of trouble and special care; however when you see the miniature trees in all their glory flowering and fruiting, you would find that each one of the efforts involved to get these masterpieces are well worth the trouble.

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One of the most common vegetables to grow is tomatoes. Perhaps it is because of their health benefits, or maybe it is just because they taste so great on salads and sandwiches. Whatever the case may be, these delicious veggies can be some of the most rewarding to grow, as well as some of the trickiest. By following a few simple steps, you can ensure a large, healthy crop and overcome any potential problems.

Tomato plants can be divided into two main categories: those that form a flower cluster at the terminal point, and those that grow indefinitely. The taller plants that grow indefinitely are called indeterminates, and due to the fact that they mature very late in the season, are often in danger of frost damage.

Big, plump tomatoes with healthy leaves are the product of very hot, dry soil, air, and lots of sun. Colder temperatures are the death of many tomato plants.

The best way to protect your plants is by using multiple techniques. Late in the season, when frost threatens, small, portable greenhouses may be used to cover the vine. For those who don’t feel like putting forth that effort, the solution may be to plant early and harvest early. In considering which method to use make sure to take into account the time frame of your growing season.

The cooler climates of the north do best with what are called the first early varieties of tomatoes. These medium sized tomatoes don’t like too much sun, and are often ready to be harvested in about two months.

Beyond weather problems, tomatoes are at risk for a number of common diseases, pests and soil problems.

By not watering your plants evenly a number of problems can develop, such as blossom end rot. This causes a large brown spot to appear on the bottom of the tomato, which softens as it ripens. It is caused by a calcium deficiency, which is caused when a plant does not have a sufficient supply of water.

The only solution is to rid the vine of affected tomatoes and hope the rest will flourish. Clearly, it is best to take the active approach in preventing this problem by watering your plants thoroughly, hydrating all the way down to the root. Mulch is great for keeping the soil moist, and maintaining a pH level of 6.5.

Tomato hornworms are a common scourge of all tomato growers. These four-inch larvae tend to blend into the green stems of the tomato plant. But they can be seen by the aid of the long white stripes down their sides. They have a large false eyespot, a black spot, on the tail.

The adults are large brown moths that may achieve wingspans of up to five inches. Marigolds, basil and other trap crops can help keep them off the tomato plants where they lay their eggs that develop into larvae.

One of the smaller enemies of tomatoes are the tiny, yellowish, green and white aphids. They can be temporarily removed by a hose, but will return unless other measures are taken.

To aid in the control of pests, some choose to plant companion crops. In addition, insecticide soaps can be used that eliminate problems without harming the tomatoes.

Despite the needed care, tomatoes are well worth the effort. These delicious and healthy vegetables make a great addition to any meal.

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Vegetable gardening has all kinds of positives. It’s fun, it’s good exercise in fresh air, and (lastly, but not least) it provides tasty and healthy food. But nothing comes free. Gardening requires effort and attention.

Planning your vegetable garden is a must. It’s a rare crop in unusual circumstances that can simply be grown from throwing some seed into the ground and harvesting a few months later. Laying out the proper size and location, preparing the soil, and making compost are only some of the activities that need to be done before ever planting a seed.

The Fertilizing Process

Fertilization needs to be done before vegetable plant seeds are planted and while they are growing. Which kind and how much depends on the species, the soil type and other factors. There are a wide variety of choices today and in each case the directions have to be carefully followed. Over fertilizing leads to burning. Using the wrong type will kill a plant more often than using none at all.

Organic vs. Modern Gardening Techniques

Consider whether you want to use strictly organic methods of vegetable gardening, or whether you will rely on modern aids. Not that those two methods are necessarily opposed. It’s becoming more difficult to tell the difference all the time. Traditional organic techniques have been informed by modern science. Modern science has advanced to see the wisdom of incorporating many natural compounds and processes to produce the safest result.

Weed Control & Watering

Watering is critical. Here again, not too much and not too little is key. Soils vary a lot in how effectively they’ll drain or retain water. Species vary in how much water they need. How much water is right is also influenced heavily by temperature and humidity. When to water is equally important. Cool nighttime temperatures can encourage fungi and water left on the leaves makes it almost a certainty.

Weed control is a never ending battle. They spring up in the most unexpected places. But they’re not the only form of life that will cause trouble for your vegetable plants. Pests and diseases are an ever present threat. Keeping them under control doesn’t have to be a war, but it is a perpetual detente.

Some Final Considerations

Before getting started, investigate which plants to sow. Personal taste will play a large role, of course. Some people don’t like onions, others can’t stand broccoli. But the soil and climate will have much more to say about the success of your efforts than a child who doesn’t like spinach.

Tomatoes, for example, are a great vegetable. Tasty, versatile and very healthy. But they like lots of hot sunshine and most varieties are very sensitive to frost. Planting a number, then having your effort ruined because of a hornworm or an early cold snap is a disappointment you don’t need.

Whether you want to grow indoors or outside, in a large plot of earth or in small containers, vegetable gardening will bring many rewards. Putting in a modest effort will bring them forth.

A wild-flower garden has a most attractive sound. One thinks of long tramps in the woods, collecting material, and then of the fun in fixing up a real for sure wild garden.

Many people say they have no luck at all with such a garden. It is not a question of luck, but a question of understanding, for wild flowers are like people and each has its personality. What a plant has been accustomed to in Nature it desires always. In fact, when removed from its own sort of living conditions, it sickens and dies. That is enough to tell us that we should copy Nature herself. Suppose you are hunting wild flowers. As you choose certain flowers from the woods, notice the soil they are in, the place, conditions, the surroundings, and the neighbours.

Suppose you find dog-tooth violets and wind-flowers growing near together. Then place them so in your own new garden. Suppose you find a certain violet enjoying an open situation; then it should always have the same. You see the point, do you not? If you wish wild flowers to grow in a tame garden make them feel at home. Cheat them into almost believing that they are still in their native haunts.

Wild flowers ought to be transplanted after blossoming time is over. Take a trowel and a basket into the woods with you. As you take up a few, a columbine, or a hepatica, be sure to take with the roots some of the plant’s own soil, which must be packed about it when replanted.

The bed into which these plants are to go should be prepared carefully before this trip of yours. Surely you do not wish to bring those plants back to wait over a day or night before planting. They should go into new quarters at once. The bed needs soil from the woods, deep and rich and full of leaf mold. The under drainage system should be excellent. Then plants are not to go into water-logged ground. Some people think that all wood plants should have a soil saturated with water. But the woods themselves are not water-logged. It may be that you will need to dig your garden up very deeply and put some stone in the bottom. Over this the top soil should go. And on top, where the top soil once was, put a new layer of the rich soil you brought from the woods.

Before planting water the soil well. Then as you make places for the plants put into each hole some of the soil which belongs to the plant which is to be put there.

I think it would be a rather nice plan to have a wild-flower garden giving a succession of bloom from early spring to late fall; so let us start off with March, the hepatica, spring beauty and saxifrage. Then comes April bearing in its arms the beautiful columbine, the tiny bluets and wild geranium. For May there are the dog-tooth violet and the wood anemone, false Solomon’s seal, Jack-in-the-pulpit, wake robin, bloodroot and violets. June will give the bellflower, mullein, bee balm and foxglove. I would choose the gay butterfly weed for July. Let turtle head, aster, Joe Pye weed, and Queen Anne’s lace make the rest of the season brilliant until frost.

Let us have a bit about the likes and dislikes of these plants. After you are once started you’ll keep on adding to this wild-flower list.

There is no one who doesn’t love the hepatica. Before the spring has really decided to come, this little flower pokes its head up and puts all else to shame. Tucked under a covering of dry leaves the blossoms wait for a ray of warm sunshine to bring them out. These embryo flowers are further protected by a fuzzy covering. This reminds one of a similar protective covering which new fern leaves have. In the spring a hepatica plant wastes no time on getting a new suit of leaves. It makes its old ones do until the blossom has had its day. Then the new leaves, started to be sure before this, have a chance. These delayed, are ready to help out next season. You will find hepaticas growing in clusters, sort of family groups. They are likely to be found in rather open places in the woods. The soil is found to be rich and loose. So these should go only in partly shaded places and under good soil conditions. If planted with other woods specimens give them the benefit of a rather exposed position, that they may catch the early spring sunshine. I should cover hepaticas over with a light litter of leaves in the fall. During the last days of February, unless the weather is extreme take this leaf covering away. You’ll find the hepatica blossoms all ready to poke up their heads.

The spring beauty hardly allows the hepatica to get ahead of her. With a white flower which has dainty tracings of pink, a thin, wiry stem, and narrow, grass-like leaves, this spring flower cannot be mistaken. You will find spring beauties growing in great patches in rather open places. Plant a number of the roots and allow the sun good opportunity to get at them. For this plant loves the sun.

The other March flower mentioned is the saxifrage. This belongs in quite a different sort of environment. It is a plant which grows in dry and rocky places. Often one will find it in chinks of rock. There is an old tale to the effect that the saxifrage roots twine about rocks and work their way into them so that the rock itself splits. Anyway, it is a rock garden plant. I have found it in dry, sandy places right on the borders of a big rock. It has white flower clusters borne on hairy stems.

The columbine is another plant that is quite likely to be found in rocky places. Standing below a ledge and looking up, one sees nestled here and there in rocky crevices one plant or more of columbine. The nodding red heads bob on wiry, slender stems. The roots do not strike deeply into the soil; in fact, often the soil hardly covers them. Now, just because the columbine has little soil, it does not signify that it is indifferent to the soil conditions. For it always has lived, and always should live, under good drainage conditions. I wonder if it has struck you, how really hygienic plants are? Plenty of fresh air, proper drainage, and good food are fundamentals with plants.

It is evident from study of these plants how easy it is to find out what plants like. After studying their feelings, then do not make the mistake of huddling them all together under poor drainage conditions.

I always have a feeling of personal affection for the bluets. When they come I always feel that now things are beginning to settle down outdoors. They start with rich, lovely, little delicate blue blossoms. As June gets hotter and hotter their colour fades a bit, until at times they look quite worn and white. Some people call them Quaker ladies, others innocence. Under any name they are charming. They grow in colonies, sometimes in sunny fields, sometimes by the road-side. From this we learn that they are more particular about the open sunlight than about the soil.

If you desire a flower to pick and use for bouquets, then the wild geranium is not your flower. It droops very quickly after picking and almost immediately drops its petals. But the purplish flowers are showy, and the leaves, while rather coarse, are deeply cut. This latter effect gives a certain boldness to the plant that is rather attractive. The plant is found in rather moist, partly shaded portions of the woods. I like this plant in the garden. It adds good colour and permanent colour as long as blooming time lasts, since there is no object in picking it.

There are numbers and numbers of wild flowers I might have suggested. These I have mentioned were not given for the purpose of a flower guide, but with just one end in view your understanding of how to study soil conditions for the work of starting a wild-flower garden.

If you fear results, take but one or two flowers and study just what you select. Having mastered, or better, become acquainted with a few, add more another year to your garden. I think you will love your wild garden best of all before you are through with it. It is a real study, you see.