When you grow plants from seeds, they may be attacked by a fungus known as “damping off.” You can cut down the chances of this by using sterilized starting mix, but if they are attacked, you’ll need to throw away the plants that have been attacked. Otherwise, it may spread to the healthy plants.

Leaf mold is another common ailment of houseplants. If your plants get it, remove the leaves that have been affected. If this doesn’t work, you’ll have to throw out the whole plant, or other plants will get it. In fact, this guideline should be followed no matter what disease or pest infestation your plant gets. If it is badly infected, the wisest choice is to throw away the whole plant. They are very difficult to cure, and you risk infecting your other plants.

With some plants, you’ll understandably have a hard time following this rule. Especially if you’ve had the plant for a long time, it can be a difficult choice. However, it is the best thing to do if you want to keep the rest of your plants healthy.

If one of your favorite plants gets a mild case of blight or infestation, it may be possible to save it, but it will take a lot of work on your part. You’ll need to remove it from its usual location, and keep it in a spot far away from your other plants during the time it is healing.

There are five major types of insects that attack houseplants. Aphids are small green or brown insects that can be found on the underside of the leaves. They can sometimes be hard to see because they blend in with the leaves. First, try a good hard spray of water to get rid of them. If this doesn’t work, you’ll have to resort to an insecticide if you really want to save the plant. You’ll need to spray your plant several times with the insecticide, because it only works if the spray comes into direct contact with the insect. Once you’re done, spray the plant with water to remove the insecticide.

Mealybugs are another common houseplant pest. A small white insect, they are usually found either underneath the leaves, or on the stems. Spraying with water usually does not get rid of them, so instead use an insecticide. Then, pick off the remaining few by hand. Use a Q-tip dipped in alcohol to pry off the remaining mealybugs. Double check to make sure that they are all gone before you return the plant to its usual spot.

Scale insects vary in shape, and are usually dark brown or black. They usually do not move once affixing themselves to the plant. Most often, they are found on ferns, palms, citrus fruits, rubber plants, and ivy. The only effective way to get rid of them is to pick them off individually. Again, use a Q-tip dipped in alcohol to remove the pests.

Red spiders are very tiny, and often the first sign is a web woven in the joint of a stem and leaf. They can be washed off with a strong spray of water, but you should also treat the plant with an insecticide to be sure they won’t come back.

White flies are tiny and moth-like, usually found on Geraniums and similar plants Because they will fly off if you try to spray the plant, they are hard to get rid of. Try spraying the plant with an insecticide several times per week.

Gardening is a wonderful pastime, not only will it add beauty to your home but you will also be able to feed yourself and your family from your pass time. But if you don’t deal with the problem of pests you will find that you are feeding unwelcome guests and not your family.

Pest control is one of the most important issues when planning your garden, whether it is a flower or vegetable garden. If you allow pests to overrun your garden instead of a thing of beauty and source of food you will have nothing more than an ugly mess.

A gardeners best friend is his or her spay can, knap sack and the pest control section of his or her supermarket. Gardening is excellent exercise and can be hard work, so why spend all of that time having it turn into unproductive time just because of garden pests.

To help your garden stand out and be noticed you should not only care for the garden but for the lawn that surrounds it as well. The frame of a painting makes the painting look so much better.

Lawn grubs need to be controlled, not only will they damage your lawn but will eventually spread to your garden. Beetle grubs especially will turn your lawn into a dust bowl, but before you reach for a highly toxic poison try making your own environmentally friendly pesticide.

Don’t spend all of that time planning, digging and planting your garden only to kill it with a chemical that you hope will help it survive. Study the pest that you want to eradicate, find out what their habits are, and use the best chemical or pesticide for the job. You don’t use a hammer to paint a wall, do you?

Some pests will avoid a nice healthy garden, so nurture it by giving it the correct amount of water, the right fertilizer and don’t cut the grass too short. Now that your garden is healthy you can start to eradicate the pests that have stayed.

Even though your garden may be looking beautiful, it will also look very inviting to snails and slugs. The City of Toronto has banned the use of pesticides for most purposes, but still allows Scotts EcoSense ferric phosphate, because it is as safe as can be in your garden.

I hope that I have made it abundantly clear that if you want to reap the benefits of all of your hard work in the garden you have to minimize the damage that the pests can cause. In order to defeat your enemy in the garden you must get to know them.

If you grow roses in your garden but are having problems keeping them healthy, insects may be responsible. If you do nothing to deter them, they can do a lot of damage. There are ten major rose enemies, which you should be able to identify them if you hope to evade them.

1. Aphids Aphids are the most frequent bug to feed on roses. Most commonly found in buds and shoots, high numbers of aphids will encourage mild growth and blacken the rose leaves. They can also reduce the size of the flowers, or even kill some buds. Aphids are mainly a problem in the spring and early summer. Ladybugs are the aphid’s natural enemy, but you can also use water spray or insecticidal soaps to remove the aphids.

2. Spider Mites Spider mites can cause your rose leaves to dry up and fall off. They are so tiny that you probably will not notice them on the leaves. They are usually found in dry, dusty conditions. To get rid of spider mites, reduce the dust near your plants and ensure that they are watered sufficiently.

3. Fuller Rose Beetles Fuller Rose Beetles will chew on your rose bushes’ flowers and leaves, giving them ragged edges. They eat during the night, and will hide on the underside of the leaves during the day. Pesticides do not usually kill them, so you’ll need to handpick them off your plants.

4. Thrips Thrips leave brown streaks on your rose flowers, especially those that are white or light colored. Thrips can easily move from one plant to another if your rose bushes are planted close together. The best way to get rid of them is to clip and dispose of any blooms that have been infected.

5. Caterpillars Several species of caterpillars enjoy feeding on rose leaves. Because this damage does not threaten the rose plant’s overall health, you should simply remove affected leaves or buds.

6. Rose Slugs Rose slugs are actually the larvae of sawflies, but they look like caterpillars because they have legs. They have many natural enemies, but you can also remove them by washing your rose bushes with a strong spray of water.

7. Leafcutter Bees Leafcutter bees make semicircular holes in the leaves of your rose bushes. Other than killing the bees, which are natural pollinators and therefore helpful for your garden, there is no effective way to stop their work on your rose bushes.

8. Rose Curculio In a pool garden ideas, the common problem is the Rose Curculio that usually affects yellow or white roses. They are about a quarter of an inch long, and punch holes in flowers and buds. The larvae feed on developing buds, making this pest quite destructive for your flowers. You can get rid of them by spraying your rose bushes with an insecticide.

9. Flat Headed Borers Flat headed borers cause your rose bushes to die back, and sometimes they can kill the entire plant. You need to remove anything that has been infested with this pest. Keep your plants healthy by not over pruning them, and ensuring that they receive enough water in order to have a good landscape design.

10. Scale Insects Scale insects are small grey bugs with scales. In a pool landscaping, the ideas The best way to get rid of them is to prune any affected canes, and use pesticides to keep them from infecting remaining canes.

Getting the answer to what do termites look like should be the concern of every home owner. This is because termites can strike almost anywhere and when they do, they are difficult to get rid of and can cause damage to property. For some though, termite identification does not come easily. So what do termites look like?

What Do Termites Look Like?

The answer generally depends on the species and type of termite. There are more than 2000 species of termites and there are two major types, dry wood and ground or subterranean termites. Termites however share some similar features that differentiate them from other insects like ants.

Because they are the ones that may live underground and move through mud tubes to your home, ground or subterranean termites should be your primary concern. Ground termites can have anywhere from thousands to millions of members. Unless you identify them and have them properly and expertly exterminated, they will keep on eating your wood and furniture.

Termites basically subsist on cellulose or wood based products including paper. Some homeowners get a clue that they have termites if they notice some woodwork with eaten up sections. You would have a better chance though of answering the question what do termites look like if you study the features of the different colony members.

Workers

The lowest level in the hierarchy are the worker termites. However, they are also usually quite numerous. This is because they are the ones who forage for food for everyone else, groom the other members of the community, care for the eggs and build tunnels. They are creamy white in color with straight antennae and bodies. They therefore resemble grains of rice with legs. Since they do most of the dirty work, they are the ones easily spotted by humans when wood or mud tunnels are broken off.

Soldiers

Soldier termites is another type of termite that looks different from the first two. Termite soldiers are the defenders of the colony and may be seen when tunnels or wood areas are exposed. They have large light orange heads that carry sturdy pinchers for crushing. Some species have holes on their foreheads from which they release chemicals to suppress would be invaders. They are larger than workers but just like workers, they have straight, whitish bodies.

Swarmers or Reproductives

Swarmers or reproductives are easy to identify. This type of termite can be identified as having four wings that are of the same size and are longer than their bodies. Unlike workers however, they have darker colored bodies. Swarmers usually separate from the colonies from which they were born and look for other places with which to establish new colonies. These swarmers eventually grow to become new queens and kings.

Mud Tubes

If you still can’t give a definite answer to what do termites look like, you may want to consider relying on the evidence of their presence. Aside from eaten up wood, you should also look for mud tunnels or tubes that may stick on some wooden parts of your house. Some tunnels may also rise up from the ground.

Termite identification goes beyond simply identifying the different members of the termite colony. If homeowners are to protect their homes and prevent termite infestation, they must know some basics first.

The Truth About Termites

The most common look that termites are usually associated with is the worker termites look. These are the termites that do all the food foraging and are creamy white in color. The truth though is that termites usually avoid the light and the open air.

Termites burrow deep in your soil and work its way to the wooden parts of your house through mud tunnels. This means that the damage to your property may also be undetected until there is already too much damage. Some homeowners do not know they have termites until damaged wood breaks off to reveal the white workers. The key to early termite identification is to look for tell tale signs of their presence.

Swarmer Termite Identification

The role of swarmer termites is usually to fly off and build new termite communities. Early termite identification therefore begins by looking for flying winged insects of a dark color, with straight bodies and four equal length wings that they might discard around your property.. These swarmers may fly to or away from your house.

Swarmer termites usually appear during the beginning of spring or right after a rainfall. Although some may say that some swarmers simply get blown accidentally to your house, they might just establish a colony if the conditions are right.

Termite Identification Through Mud Tunnels

Termite identification can begin with looking for mud tunnels. Since worker termites try to avoid open spaces and day light, they usually move from their underground colony home to your house through mud tunnels. You should therefore be a little worried if you notice some seemingly dried mud that seem to rise up from the soil and stick on cracks or boards. When prodded, these tunnels may come off as grainy particles on your fingers. Some conditions are just so perfect for termites that they may even build mud mounds somewhere in your property.

Termite Identification Through Damage

If termites remain undetected for a long time, your home may already be in severe damage. Some signs of termite damage would be holes on the surface of the wood, paint cracks or wood that sounds hollow. Extensive termite damage may result in wood surface that easily breaks off when you prod it, revealing irregular sized hollow areas inside that may have traces of grainy mud.

Favorable Conditions

Environmental conditions are not necessary for termite identification. Favorable conditions however may tell you that you may attract potential colonists. You may for example have moist soil with wood contact on the ground. Ground termites love moist soil and the proximity of the wood to the soil may make their food harvesting work easier. Pipes that leak on wooden trash around the house and foundation cracks may also encourage termite infestation.

Whilst landscaping can give many benefits to the homeowner, there are a few basic problems that we have to deal with. The following article will list some of these problems and suggest a solution to them.

Dealing with Pests

The unwelcome insects and animals that come uninvited into our gardens can, if not dealt with, lead to significant damage. They can also create problems for humans and our pets through the spread of infection. One solution is to use pest proof products, repellants or traps, but these can have a negative impact on the environment as well if they are not carefully used.

To avoid this, it is wise to consider alternatives. Talk to other people in your area about their methods of pest control - this may include pest controllers, who wil be able to advise you on the safe use of chemicals.

Dealing with Irrigation

The correct use of water is a significant issue and if you are installing an irrigation system it must be done properly. Too little or too much water can kill a plant or retard its growth and in some cases can spread disease through pathogens living in the water that has pooled.

The best option for do it yourself gardeners is the drip system. It should be checked on a regular basis to ensure that there are no unwanted leaks or blockages.

Dealing with Climatic Changes

If you choose the wrong types of plants for the climate in your area, you are doomed to fail. There are some plants that do not cope well with too much snow, rain, cold or heat.

To avoid this problem, your landscape should be created in “layers” - taller plantings at the back, then a middle level and short level. This will reduce damage to the more sensitive plants from wind. If you have extreme weather conditions, it is best to choose plants that are native to the area and are adaptable to the climate.

Dealing with Maintenance

It is vital that regular maintenance be carried out to keep the landscape looking good. This can be a rather arduous task, especially if there are changes in climate or if the area is a large one and the plants are spaced out.

If you want to avoid this, once again choose native plants as they will generally require lower levels of maintenance. Smaller gardens with less “busy” designs will be easier to look after. Choose less variety in plantings to lower the workload.

Dealing with Plant Diseases

Diseases and pests are common in gardens. Many plants are susceptible to disease or pest attack, for example, thrips or black spot on roses. Trying to control disease can be difficult once it takes hold, so it is best to employ preventative measures.

In the first instance, ensure that the plants you choose are healthy and keep a watchful eye on them for the first few months. Any diseased parts of the plant should be removed as soon as they are found. You can apply an organic pesticide to prevent pest attack.

Dealing with Drainage

Drainage is not something that we give much thought to, but it is important. Without proper drainage, erosion, leaks and boggy areas can form. These boggy areas can in turn create an ideal environment for algae, fungi and mosquitoes, ruining all your efforts.

Make sure that you include drainage in the initial plans and if you do not feel confident about dealing with the drainage yourself, consult an expert.

Dealing with Weeds

Weeds are just unwanted plants in all gardens and landscapes and are something we all have to cope with. If you grow anywhere and if let them take control, they will ruin the look even of your hillside landscaping designs and all your hard work will have gone to waste.

Mulching the garden is a great weed suppressant and you can use weedicides or herbicides as well, taking care to avoid contact with the plants you want to keep.

Dealing with Hazardous Chemicals

There may be times when a landscaper has to use hazardous chemicals in the garden and they must ensure that they follow the precautions on the labels to avoid serious health problems. Some of these chemicals are known to cause cancer, nerve damage or birth defects when they are not used properly.

One solution to this problem is to avoid using the more hazardous chemicals and wherever possible using organic alternatives.

Image via Wikipedia

When it comes to vile predators interfering with the natural growth of your peaceful plants, these insects and other beasties do their dirty work in two main ways.

The first is chewing insects. These guys will leave holes in your plant’s leaves or eat away whole sections of them, weakening the leaf tremendously. Insects or other deviants in this category include earwigs, beetles, grasshoppers, slugs, caterpillars and snails. The second variety is the sucking variety, and yes, these guys just plain suck. These guys are generally smaller and include mites, flies and aphids, and they prey on the plant by sucking all the juices and nutrients out of the leaves, which naturally doesn’t leave your leaves in very good shape.

Don’t get the idea that all chewing creatures are big and all sucking ones are small though, and plan your attack strategy around that, because it may not be the case. There are some larger sucking creatures as well, including squash bugs, chinch bugs and stinkbugs. These guys can be as big as your little fingernail. By the same token not all chewers are big. One little bugger with a big appetite for leafy goodness is the black flea beetle, who enters the ring at just 1/4 of an inch in diameter.

You may come across leaves that become rolled, puckered or twisted out of shape after a time. The likely cause of a rolled leaf is a little green hairless caterpillar, who you’ll likely find nestled contentedly inside the leaf when you unroll it.

It could also be aphids taking up residence inside a rolled up leaf. Aphids come in a variety of colors, but are easily identifiable by their nearly transparent bodies, large abdomens with prong shaped protrusions jutting out the back, and their six legs. For these distinct little guys, a good chemical spray may be needed without causing more damage on abused leaves of even small plants like pony tail palm. This procedure can be difficult to get off manually especially on a plant with many leaves.

One last guy who leaves a distinctive trail of destruction in its wake is the leaf miner. These guys are aptly named, as they take up residence inside the leaf and tunnel around in it like a jolly miner in the mountain. The tunnels they make leave a transparent trail in the leaf that actually gives the appearance of a window in which you can look right through the leaf. You may even see the miner itself in one of these tunnels upon close inspection.

Insects might be responsible for some of the problems you are experiencing with your roses. These insects can be your roses’ worst friends, and will cause major damage if you do nothing to keep them away. These are some of the top ten most wanted enemies of your roses, and some ways to identify them and get rid of them.

1. Aphids

Aphids are the most frequent insect problem you will find in your roses. These insects like to make themselves comfortable in the roses’ growing tissues like buds and shoots. Aphids usually are just a problem during the spring and early summer.

Although few - or even moderate - numbers of aphids won’t cause much damage to your roses, you need to watch them and make sure their numbers don’t spread. A large group of aphids can produce honeydew, a waste product that has the consistency of a sugary liquid. This honeydew can encourage mold; the mold eventually will blacken the roses’ leaves. Flowers may decrease and new buds may be killed if there are large numbers of aphids in your roses.

You may not need to use insecticides to control your aphids. They have some natural enemies, including syrphid flies and lady beetles. If these insects aren’t around to deter your aphids, you can try washing them off of the roses with water or special types of soaps.

2. Spider Mites

Spider mites may be to blame if you notice that your roses’ leaves are drying up and falling off, or if they look like they have numerous small dots (stippling). These pests are so small that you might need a magnifying glass to find them.

Spider mites usually infest your roses because of dry and dusty conditions. It’s possible to try to control them by reducing the amount of dust and by making sure that your roses and other plants have enough water.

3. Fuller Rose Beetles

Fuller rose beetles spell big trouble as adults, when they like to chew on your rose bushes. You can usually tell they are there by the ragged edges on the roses’ leaves and flowers.

The beetles usually feed at night, when they will chew away at the roses’ flowers and leaves. During the day, fuller rose beetles hide on the leaves’ undersides.

Pesticides typically are not effective in dealing with these persistent beetles. Your best method to get rid of them is picking them off by hand.

4. Thrips

Thrips have a particular fondness to white or light-colored roses. They damage the blooms by leaving brown streaks on the flowers and cause an immense amount of damage. Thrips are a very big problem when the rose bushes are planted close to each other; thrips move easily from one plant to another.

It can be hard to control thrips with pesticides because the pesticides are mainly effective when the insects are in their development phase and are very difficult to see. The best way to get rid of thrips is to clip and throw away the infected flowers.

5. Caterpillars

Some caterpillars love to make lunch and dinners out of rose leaves. Although the damage usually doesn’t threaten the plant, the leaves can look unsightly. Remove the damaged leaves and prune any buds that are damaged.

6. Rose Slug

These insects are actually the larva of sawflies, but look like caterpillars because the rose slugs have legs. You can wash rose slugs off the bushes using a spray of water. One of their natural enemies also may keep them at bay.

7. Leafcutter Bees

These bees make holes in the rose bush leaves and take the leafy material back to their nests.

Although the leaves may not look nice, you really must put up with the bees. There’s no effective way to keep leafcutter bees away from your roses. Bees also are good for the plants because they help with pollination.

8. Rose Curculios

These pests, which are about a quarter of an inch long, start dining as young as larvae on your rose buds as they develop. The rose curculios are particularly fond of yellow and white roses.

Rose curculios eat the buds by punching holes in the buds and blooming flowers. They kill the buds before the buds can even open. You can get ride of a rose curculio infestation by getting an insecticide from a local garden or home center.

9. Flat-headed borers

Flat-headed borers can make the canes of the rose die back, and can kill the canes and the entire plant.

To get rid of the insects, you’ll need to remove any material that has an infestation. You can keep your rose bushes healthy by making sure they have enough water and not overpruning them during the summer.

10. Scale Insects

These pests get their names from the armored scales that they have. Scale insects also like to cause havoc with the cans on your rose bushes.

They may look like small gray ovals, and don’t really move around but you can find them in the front yard or back yard landscape. Because scale insects have no legs, they are there to stay. The best way to try to control them is to prune infected canes and put pesticide oil on any canes that you don’t prune.

A disease known as “damping off” is a common affliction suffered by plant seedlings in their transition to a new home. A good method to cut down on this is through the use of a sterilized starting mixture, which limits the appearance of this disease. If you notice any of your seedlings have been affected by this, you must remove and discard them to ensure it doesn’t spread to other seedlings.

Another common bane of the average house plant is leaf mold, most commonly found on rubber plants and screw pines. This fungus will also spread if not contained, so affected leaves should be immediately removed and burned. If the disease has already spread too far there may be nothing left to throw out the plant, as it could very well lead to the disease affecting other nearby plants as well.

This rule applies in many instances. Pest infestation especially will often require you to throw away the entire plant. The effort to try and rid the plant of the pests and restore it to good health, coupled with the ever present risk of other plants becoming infected really makes this choice an easy one.

Of course this may certainly be a difficult decision, especially when the plant in question is one you’ve had for a long time, and has become as much a part of your decor as any other piece of furniture or decoration. The good news is that if the pests or disease have not spread overly much, you can still endeavor to save it. The plant should be moved to a new location, away from other plants while you try to bring it back to health. At least in this way you can be certain that no other plants will be infected should the threat continue to grow worse.

Pests, in the form of insects, are one of the most common forms of plant suffering. One of these is the aphid, an insect which usually inhabits the underside of leaves. They come in a variety of colors, which may be difficult to pick up when colored similarly to the leaves themselves. A good spray with water may be enough to remove them, and should be the first step taken in trying to do so. When that fails you can resort to a commercial insecticide instead.

Multiple sprayings will likely be necessary, after which point the remaining few may need to be taken off by hand. This can be accomplished by winding a wisp of cotton around the end of a toothpick and lightly dipping it in alcohol. This creation should easily remove the remaining few who proved resistant to the water or insecticide.

Another form of insects are scale insects, which con in a number of different shapes, sizes and colors. Plants most susceptible to these pests are ferns, ficus tree plant, citrus fruits, ivy and palms.

These hardy pests have a level of immunity to insecticides that makes other methods of removing them more viable. The toothpick method mentioned above is one of the better ways to get rid of these guys, as you’ll be all but forced to remove them by hand one way or the other.

These are just a few of the many pests you may encounter when dealing with house plants. The most important thing is to always keep a watchful eye over your plants to make sure they’re in good health, and take action immediately when anything seems to be awry.